Old World Meets New at Spumoni

Enjoy Spumoni’s Scampi Fra Diavolo swimming in spicy red sauce.

Growing up in New Jersey, I remember dining at one of my family’s favorite restaurants, Nicastro’s. I recently learned actor Joe Pesci’s father, Alfred, worked at the establishment.

I recall my favorite dish was a plate of melted cheese the chef concocted especially for this picky five-year-old eater. It was accompanied by a Shirley Temple soda made from ginger ale and grenadine syrup, and classic almond-flavored gelato, called Biscuit Tortoni, served in a small white paper cup for dessert.

Over the years, my tastes expanded as my love of Italian food grew. These days, one of my go-to spots is the popular Spumoni restaurant on Montana Avenue. From succulent antipasti and classic Caesar salad to homemade pasta and gnocchi, Spumoni transports me back to my childhood. Only this time, there’s a bit of a modern twist on a classic Italian menu with such healthy fare as salads topped with grilled salmon or goat cheese and beets.

One of my favorite dishes is their devilishly delicious Scampi Fra Diavolo. Each time I bite into the jumbo tiger shrimp covered in spicy tomato sauce, my tastebuds sing like Pavarotti. Accompanied by rosemary roasted potatoes and sautéed veggies, it answers my craving for both seafood and Italian.

Pasta lovers (and who isn’t?) should try their Lasagna Bolognese, layered in meat, creamy bechamel sauce, and cheese. Their homemade pasta includes such delicacies as Strozzapreti Carbonara with elongated cavatelli and pancetta, egg yolks, and Parmigiano Reggiano, and Cavatelli Broccoli Rabe with Italian sausage, roasted broccoli rabe, chili, white wine, and of course, garlic. And, it’s all served up with love.

If you’re like I am, the closest thing to heaven, foodwise, is savory tomato sauce and melted cheese. Fortunately, Spumoni offers both wheat-based and gluten-free pizza with mouthwatering toppings. Desserts, such as traditional New York cheesecake, cannoli, tiramisù, and their signature Spumoni Bomba, round out the menu.

Spumoni provides indoor and outdoor seating plus delivery and take out seven days a week. You’ll often find a line on Monday nights when they offer dine-in customers 50% off between 5 p.m. and 9 p.m. Enjoy Happy Hour Tuesday through Friday from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., and Wine Wednesdays with free corkage, or 50% off any bottle. They also have wonderful servers such as Steven and Fausto, and Juliette to greet you. 713 Montana Avenue, 310-393-2944.

By Lori Berezin